Chichen Itza & Merida – Beautiful & Powerful History

I can tell already my Ipod is going to get a real workout during this Mexico trip – we have a lot of bus hours ahead. However, this leg of the trip, from Cancun to the Chichen Itza site at Merida, is only 2.5 hours. Perched against the window, Dashboard Confessional pounding through my ears, the highway is long and flat, with only darting stray dogs, and a few run down houses to entertain the visuals. From what I’ve learnt about Mexico so far: it is hot, but not like the humid heat back home in Queensland, Australia produces, more like a heavy, dry heat; the locals are obliging to help you out, even when the language barrier proves tough; and an interesting difference to back home that forever intrigues Emma and I, is that it appears quite legal to jam as many people as possible in the back of utes, wear no seatbelts, and bounce your baby on your lap in the car. Spotting these scenarios has become our new game on the road, forever trying to out do each other's sightings. Julia: 3. Emma: 2.

Arriving at the Chichen Itza site we meet out tour guide, a very sweet, and very knowledgeable man who I think somewhat bears a resemblance to Yoda – he walks with a cane, is rather short, wears white, and speaks slowly and with such wisdom, except he structures his sentences the correct way. He must conduct many tours daily, but is so excited and proud of this historic, ancient Mayan site, it feels as if he is telling the story for the first time. Whilst we gather in our group and take in each slow word, the sheer size and clear paramount importance of the main site at Chichen Itza stuns me. The precision, dedication, and spiritual vision that created this wonder, and in such ancient times where there were no tools to craft the stones, or no wheel to transport the massive masses (apparently the Mayans were aware of the concept of the wheel, but chose to transport the stones purely by man-power, ropes, and trees), is simply breathtaking. Not unlike the shadow of the serpent that winds its way down the Chichen Itza pyramid only twice a year (March & September) – another testimony to the Mayans architectural genius, and close tap onto the planet’s cycle.

After two hours, and about 2000 beads of sweat later (it was about 39 degrees Celcius), we leave the site where we have witnessed the renown ancient ball court, where history has it that the winner was sacrificed/beheaded (as depicted through the stone carvings), a large cenote, circular Mayan ruins, and a handful of colourful markets.

We break for lunch before embarking once again on the long, flat highway to the colonial, ‘White City’ of Merida. During our orientation walk, Lisa points out the best places for cheap meals, laundry, internet and breakfast café options. Plus we happen to arrive on Sunday where the weekly markets breathe a colourful, festive life into the main square. Crafts, jewellery, handmade clothing and carvings are on offer, as well as live entertainment from local theatre groups, school students, and bands. At night, the street comes more alive, with couples dancing to a lively, upbeat Spanish music group. Mexican men try and coax Emma and I to dance with them in the streets; however, we have our hearts set on another street-based adventure – the horse and carriage ride. Although the horse appears less than excited to walk the same route again the driver leads us on a 45-minute city tour, pointing out the stunning mansions, government buildings (yes both are very, very large and in the town’s trademark colour: white), and the enormous and very detailed statue of the history of Mexico.

Back in the hotel, Emma and I reminisce over the day, and share our love for Merida – the Mexican town we have definitely developed a crush on.