Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun, and bidding the Tucan group farewell – we’re in Mexico City!

At 7am wearied-eyed group members shuffle onto the bus, and as the bus rolls quietly through the streets, we watch the town of Puebla slowly wake up as we leave for Mexico City. On the way, we stop for coffee and to take in the magnificent sight of snow-capped mountains, which is dubbed “Itchy & Scratchy” – a surreal sight for summer time in Mexico! A couple of hours later we enter the famous Teotuhuacan ruins, a spectacular and very large site, and home to the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Sun. This site is simply enormous, pyramid after pyramid span the horizon. The heat is in full effect, as usual, but it doesn't stop us walking half way up the Moon pyramid (due to restorations) and the full 248 or so stairs to the top of the Sun pyramid - a feat that most fitness levels can endure, given I witnessed mothers carrying babies on their backs, kindergarten-aged kids, along with 70-year-old grandmas successfully make the mission both up and down.

We share our final group lunch together, before returning back to the bus to our last stop: Mexico City. As we pull into the world's largest city, with a population of 25 million people (more than the entire population of Australia!), Mexico City needs no introduction as its hectic, compact, and loud intensity smacks us in the face. We pile our backpacks on and collect all our excess baggage from the bus and learn to battle the sea of people on the way to our hotel. Everything is rush rush as we dodge our way through the sidewalk that is littered with stalls, people, dogs, smells, sounds and non-stop action - basically an all out assault on each of our five senses! Although, some of the areas are less hectic, the zocalo (main square) surprisingly, being one of them.

During our farewell dinner, we swap memories and email addresses, and it suddenly dawns on me just how much we have experienced on the tour. In two short weeks we have clocked up so many amazing memories, visited a plethora of interesting towns, and drank so much cerveca and feasted on an array of corn-related meals that instead of satisfying my taste for Mexico, it has only ignited it. Where to next?

Happy travels,
Julia

Don sombreros for roadside cacti photo shoot, then onwards to Puebla

Hunting down somewhere open before 8am for breakfast at Oaxaca proved quite a challenge. Pounding the pavement for several blocks, we eventually found a café that opened its doors, racing in we grabbed two crossaints and ran back to the hotel to make the bus for an 8.30am start – today we are travelling to Puebla, and it is another long trip.

A few hours in, and about three repeats of The Killers' latest album on my Ipod, we stop by the roadside on the highway at a fantastic collection of cacti – tall ones, short ones, and round ones. We muster our Mexican props: sombreros, ponchos and Mezcal, and take turns posing for photos. But it's clear we Aussies and Kiwis (and one Irishman!) couldn’t compete with Louis’s (our fantastic Tucan Tour driver) pose – very authentic!

We pile back onto the bus and continue climbing the altitude of 1500m-2000m to reach the next town, Puebla – the city of tavavera tiles, and home to the famous Mole Poblano, a chilli chocolate sauce. As we enter the city, which unlike the previous towns is not indigenous, it is evident through the stunning streets and the building’s intricately tiled walls, that the Spanish brought with them a distinct European influence. A large, bustling city, with a more middle-to-upper class demographic, I spot the first suit I’ve seen in almost three weeks in Mexico.

During the orientation walk, I made a mental note of all the clothes stores, boutiques, and jewellery stores, and promise myself to get some retail therapy in after the group dinner. After dinner, we ran through the rain, dodging droplets by tip-toeing under store awnings, and it is at night time that I notice just how truly beautiful the town and main square is. Bundles of balloons for sale add vibrant splashes of colour to the dark night sky, while fairy lights twinkle through the branches of the trees. Jazz music floats through the air, and I wish we were spending more than just one night in this town.

Lie ins, a diet of Gatorade and Burger King chips, and strolling Oaxaca streets…

After a peaceful sleep for me, and a not so peaceful sleep for Emma, we both wake up feeling like we have been hit by a bus. Me on one hand, simply drained but recovering from the past day, whereas poor Emma has succumbed to a similar state as I was in yesterday.

While the rest of the group visited the Monte Alban ruins, which have been described to me as very beautiful, ornate and descriptive, yet mostly restored, Emma and I spent the morning in bed. Leaving the hotel only to venture to Burger King for some bland fries to fill our empty stomachs. After my energy is restored thanks to a few bottles of Gatorade, I join some other group members and take a scenic stroll through Oaxaca, a large, lively student city where it is recommended to visit the aromatic food markets to try the spices, cheeses and even grilled grasshoppers. There are many stunning buildings and churches in the town, and while we laid relatively low today, I didn’t feel like I missed out on too much.

Food poisoning and five-hour bus trips do not mix…

Ok, I’ll admit it. I had been rather cocky that my tummy had not given way to Montezuma’s revenge. After feasting on plenty of traditional Mexican cuisine for more than a week, my stomach has taken to the transitions very well. Hoping I would last the entire tour without tummy problems was drawn to a quick halt when I was awoken abruptly by chronic stomach pains that forced me to befriend the bathroom on spontaneous trips from 3am til 7am. Upon waking and groaning about just how I would manage a five-hour trip with nausea and tummy issues, I downed some tablets, and miserably walked off to the waiting bus. An hour in and my tummy slowly settled, but the nausea kicked in big time. Each twist in the road, twisted my tummy even more, to the point where I was actually sick on the bus – something I have not done since I was 10. Luckily I was discreet, and shifted myself to the front of the bus, where the travel-sickness was held at bay temporally by focusing on the horizon.

On our way to Oaxaca we stopped at a Mezcal factory, and observed how the authenic Mexican drink is made. Samples of the traditional worms were digested only by a handful of the game, while most preferred to knock back shots of the traditional mezcal, along with the creamy, sweet liquoirs. Back on the bus my fellow tour-mate experienced my same earlier fate – and after discussions, we worked out we both ate chicken the night before. Given I am not prone to travel sickness, and that I was plagued with pain for 24 hours, I am convinced it was food poisoning. Luckily for me, the afternoon and evening was free at the hotel. Unluckily for me, our hotel room had no hot water.

Today was by far the longest, most trying day of the tour. Bring on tomorrow…please!

Speedboat riding, croc spotting, and more twisting mountain roads…

We arrive early at the Grijalva River to visit the spectacular Sumidero Canyon via speedboat. Lifejackets on, and cameras at the ready, we speed down the flat waters that divide the canyons which reach startling 1000m heights. The eagle-eyed tour leader frantically pulls the boat to a halt and sneaks up close to crocodiles lazing in the water’s shallows. A little further up we spot spider monkeys cheekily swinging through the trees and playing wildly. Vultures wash and sun their wings, spanning their dark feathers in the morning sunlight before taking off for the day.

As we speed 26km down the beautiful calm waters, we pass under bridges and slow down near some breathtaking sites: a religious tribute cave, the Christmas tree mountain, and a historically and culturally significant site. The water is 100m deep, and as we crane our necks to the top of the 1000m tall canyon, we are told that in ancient times, it is believed that Mayans jumped to their deaths when the Spanish invaded, a tragic leap to rid themselves from an impending life of slavery. Each day I learn more and more about Mexico’s very long and interesting history, and I promise myself to google more when I leave the country.

Back on the bus, we snack on chocolates and chips, finish our novels, and hum to our Ipods until we reach our next brief stop, a prison that sells very large, fantastic quality hammocks made by the inmates. Most of the group snap up the colourful hammocks, I on one hand opting for a bright fusion of greens – I can’t wait to set it up back at home and tell my friends about its interesting origins. Back on the road, we eventually reach our final stop for the night at Tehuantepec, where we stay at a hotel by the highway. Quickly dumping our backs at our rooms, we don our bikinis and jump into the pool, eager to exercise and relax outdoors after our five hour bus ride. A waiter brings out cocktails, and I lie in a hammock, sipping a pina colada, reading my book – and certainly not missing my usual 9-5 job back home. During the evening, we eat at the hotel’s restaurant and retire early, as we have another large travel day ahead of us tomorrow.

Lazy days and lazy nights…

Emma and I doze til late, and while our tummy's are craving some greasy bacon and eggs, we can only find baguettes and spaghetti to fill the gap – and it does, sufficiently. We walk the streets and view the spectacular churches, stroll through the markets, and sip hot chocolate while taking in the action of the town square. A bustling small city, San Cristobal is also fantastic for jewellery lovers, with plenty of boutique stores with gorgeous rings, necklaces and bracelets, particularly of the amber variety. After dinner at one of the top 10 restaurants in Mexico famous for its selection of delicious Indian, Thai and Arabic fare, we stop by a jewellery store and treat ourselves to some amber and lapis lazuli rings – our latest penchant.

Chilly dips, to chilly town, to Chile wine!

Back on the bus, which by the way is very comfortable given we have 16 people on the tour who share 40 seats, we travel a short distance to Misol Ha Falls, a beautiful waterfall surrounded by lush, green forest. Perfect photo opportunity, particularly on the walk that leads around and behind the falls, allowing us to peer through the sheet of water. We then visit the beautiful Agua Azul Falls, a large site with crystal clear water and small falls – perfect for swimming, as long as you are careful of the strong current. As we brave the chilly water and pace slowly through the knee-length depths, we quickly summon up the courage to plunge into the water. The short swim is just enough, and we spend the rest of the morning basking in the sun on our sarongs. Mexican children, who balance large baskets of bananas on their heads, accost us to try buy bunches from them – although pleasant enough, they are rather bold, following us around from the pools through to the tour bus.

A very windy, five-hour drive up the mountain takes us to the incredibly crisp and clean-aired San Cristobal, another charming colonial town with plenty of local market action, beautiful restaurants, and a busy night life. Our hotel is lush and comfy and to my surprise, after sleeping on top of sheets with air-conditioning blasting the whole trip, we actually make use of the doona and two woolen blankets – it is that crisp! At night the group dine at a very delicious restaurant, and I indulge in a steak – a change from the rich Mexican cuisine. The steak is tender, cooked perfectly and is stacked with wild mushroom sauce. The sauvignon blanc from Chile is crisp, fruity and morish, breathing truth to the rumors that wines from Chile far beat other central/south American wines. After dinner, we don our dancing shoes and hit the salsa club, where a live salsa band is playing and the dance floor is warming up. We take in the lively atmosphere, and after a round of tequila slammers, we mimic the action of the salsa professionals. Although we may not look as good, we are having just as much fun! After a fantastic night of dancing and sampling Mexican beer, cocktails and tequila, we walk the quiet, dark streets back to the hotel for a long, long sleep.

Mountain-top Ruins, jungle adventures, and hot Palenque afternoons…

Turkeys gobble loudly, a woman shrieks loudly in Spanish down a microphone, cars backfire and a VW bug pollutes the air with incredibly loud radio advertising – good morning Palenque! After the collection of said ad-hoc alarms rouse us from our sleep, we roll out of bed and down to reception where we meet the group to undertake our next Mayan ruins adventure – the Maya ruins of Palenque. Arriving early, the calm, mountain-top site is cool and again, oh-so stunning. Our tour guide teaches us about the ancient Mayan high family that ruled the area. We visit tombs, underground homes, and temples, before we walk through the damp, jungle that overlooks this mystical site. We are told monkeys, snakes, and toucans inhabit the area, and while we spot a toucan – the other species must have been laying low as we took in the very green, shady jungle. The tour guide points out covered ruins swallowed by jungle, just waiting to be discovered. While some of the group opt for market-shopping after the site, Emma and I decide to rest our aching legs…this trip is going to make us fit, I can just tell!

Back in Palenque, we brave the intense heat and go shopping; however, this only lasts an hour or so, as the hotel's air-conditioning is far too alluring. In the evening, we meet up with group members for some market shopping in the square – fantastic jewellery, however not so fantastic bartering opportunities – before indulging in some cocktails and tortillas for dinner. The Mexican food is fantastic, rich, and likes to be served large. Also, complimentary appetisers like nachos, breads, and salsas are served before the large meals arrive – this usually results in Emma and I rubbing our stomachs, swearing we will not succumb to the appetizers, but we always break this promise come the next night – the food is simply too good! And too cheap!

From colonial beauty to busy, cramped city

So far we have been spoilt by the charming towns of Merida and Campeche, so after a lazy morning of munching on bakery treats, catching up on emails, and shopping at Campeche, we drive five hours to our next stop – Palenque, and feel slightly deflated. From spending a week in Mexico, I have learnt that each town is unique, has its own feel, and quite often is far removed from the town we visited prior. After lumping our backpacks into the foyer of the hotel, we sip on complimentary tequila cocktails and make our way to our room – lacking the peaceful charm of last night’s hotel, but we can’t complain – I knew touring through Mexico was not going to be champagne and 5-star luxury. But to be honest, while I am rather partial to the good life, experiencing different ways of life, foods, and approach to the everyday is what has made Mexico such an amazing country to visit. The diversity is fantastic and alluring – making each new town a definite surprise. At night, we walk the very hot, blamy streets to a pizza restaurant Lisa recommended, and munch on very tasty vegetarian pizza, and again wash it down with the mandatory Sol.

As we stroll back to the hotel, we comment that Palenque should be dubbed the shoe-city. Every third store is a shoe shop, each with very similar choices, but none of which my shoe-obsessed self can lavishly buy, as I am 5’8 and most sizes are rather small. However, Emma picked up some black heels for a steal – 120 pesos. We retire back to the hotel for an early night – as the long travel day, and hot, steamy weather has drained us.

Uxmal Ruins, Mayan households, and a little, old sea-side town…

Waking up early, I draw myself from bed and meet the tour group to embark to the Mayan ruins of Uxmal – a 1.5 hour drive. We meet our tour guide and carefully dodge the sea of iguanas sunning themselves until we arrive at the main site – stunning, spiritual and very serene. Tall trees cast shadows around the area, and we are told that unlike Chichen Itza, there were no sacrifices at the Uxmal ruins, instead it was more of a spiritual retreat. The Mayans here favoured a more aesthetic approach to their architecture and stone carvings, with ornate edges and impressive columns and arches. Again, the symbolic snake makes many appearances through their artistic work – weaving its way through the designs, and forming part of phallic symbols of fertility and spirituality. The Uxmal site is large, and is home to several enormous structures, and dozens of others covered by vegetation, just waiting for archeologists to discover their secret past.

After lunch, Lisa surprises us to a visit to a traditional Mayan household. Here, the family lead a very primitive and self-sufficing lifestyle - a stark difference to the lives we lead back home. The Mayan family are welcoming and lovely, providing demonstrations of their daily tasks like producing rope from that native sisal plant, cooking tortillas, and collecting herbs and plants from their expansive garden. Their children skip around the grounds, and we treat them with Koala toys – Emma and I made a few new best friends that day!

A few hours later we arrive at the sleepy, colonial sea-side town of Campeche. The streets are made from stones, the buildings all drenched in soft shades of pastel – painting the most stunning visuals when you walk down the centre of the street. Our hotel is equally charming with high ceilings and large black and white square tiled foyers that lead us to our rooms. This town simply oozes old-fashioned style. At night, the main square is lit by round street lights, and an impressive cathedral that looks over the city. We dine at a seafood restaurant, and after picking around a whole fish (with a napkin draped over its fishy head to mask its vacant stare), we indulge in vino blanco overlooking the main square – perfect for people watching. This town closes early, and around 10pm Emma and I find ourselves wandering around taking photos of the stunning city in the warm, night air.

Cenotes – cool off, cave style

Today we had a choice: discovering the cenotes, or shopping and scouring the town of Merida? Given we have already done the latter, and also because it was so, so hot, Emma and I chose to spend our free day cooling off at the gorgeous freshwater, limestone sinkholes called cenotes. And just getting there was half the fun. After meeting our tour guide, Gabriele, a very knowledgable, friendly, chatty man, we spent about 1.5 hours on bus, before boarding a horse-drawn rail cart through the plantations that led us to the first of the three cenotes sites we visited today.

As we descended about 10-15 metres underground and caught glimpse of the glistening fusion of deep blue and turquoise-flecked water we hurried down the wooden stairs to take a closer look. The cave is large, dark and very quiet. Tiny swallow-type birds flutter around the ceiling, and a steady beam of light penetrates the water from the small opening of the cave. Gabriele hands us life jackets and snorkelling equipment, and we jump into the 30m deep water where small fish and catfish call home. As I float on my back, staring into darkness, ears underwater, hearing only small splashes - for the first time in a long time I truly feel relaxed.

After 30 minutes of paddling through the cenote, we board the rail cart and travel about 20 minutes to the next site – a much larger cave, and a much scarier descent. I am not partial to heights. One bit. And as I peer down this narrow hole, about 1m wide, and notice a single, straight wooden ladder bolted to the sides of the cave, my heart flips, hands sweat and I am thinking ‘How on earth am I going to get down, let alone get back up?!’. As my fellow travelers fearlessly took the 20-30 steps down, I swallowed my fears because I just knew the beauty of the underground cenote would wash the nerves away. Each step down, my feet and hands shook, but as I made it to the bottom platform I was again mesmerised by the darkness, deep blue water, and the circular formation of limestone at the centre of this cenote. Through the gap at the top of the cave, the sun beamed a spotlight straight down onto the formation, illuminating the area which now looked like a stage. Diving into the water, and swimming out to the centre, there is room for us all to stand up and take in this underground, secret world.

The final cenote is definitely the most impressive. And luckily for me, the descent down does not race my heart. Its sheer size, and 40m drop from the top are breathtaking. Large roots that have pierced through the cave's ceiling centuries ago stretch out like tentacles, dangling in the icy water. There are two platforms to jump off, and while the boys take great joy bomb diving into the great depths, I instead float on my back and lull myself back into a total state of relaxation.

Back on land, we return to Merida in time to meet the group for dinner at Panchos – a lively, delicious, Mexican restaurant. In no time we notice the waiters here are very attractive, which makes the dinner rather amusing with Em trying to nab photos of them at every chance she could. Beef Chimichangas, washed down with Sol completed a truly spectacular day.

Chichen Itza & Merida – Beautiful & Powerful History

I can tell already my Ipod is going to get a real workout during this Mexico trip – we have a lot of bus hours ahead. However, this leg of the trip, from Cancun to the Chichen Itza site at Merida, is only 2.5 hours. Perched against the window, Dashboard Confessional pounding through my ears, the highway is long and flat, with only darting stray dogs, and a few run down houses to entertain the visuals. From what I’ve learnt about Mexico so far: it is hot, but not like the humid heat back home in Queensland, Australia produces, more like a heavy, dry heat; the locals are obliging to help you out, even when the language barrier proves tough; and an interesting difference to back home that forever intrigues Emma and I, is that it appears quite legal to jam as many people as possible in the back of utes, wear no seatbelts, and bounce your baby on your lap in the car. Spotting these scenarios has become our new game on the road, forever trying to out do each other's sightings. Julia: 3. Emma: 2.

Arriving at the Chichen Itza site we meet out tour guide, a very sweet, and very knowledgeable man who I think somewhat bears a resemblance to Yoda – he walks with a cane, is rather short, wears white, and speaks slowly and with such wisdom, except he structures his sentences the correct way. He must conduct many tours daily, but is so excited and proud of this historic, ancient Mayan site, it feels as if he is telling the story for the first time. Whilst we gather in our group and take in each slow word, the sheer size and clear paramount importance of the main site at Chichen Itza stuns me. The precision, dedication, and spiritual vision that created this wonder, and in such ancient times where there were no tools to craft the stones, or no wheel to transport the massive masses (apparently the Mayans were aware of the concept of the wheel, but chose to transport the stones purely by man-power, ropes, and trees), is simply breathtaking. Not unlike the shadow of the serpent that winds its way down the Chichen Itza pyramid only twice a year (March & September) – another testimony to the Mayans architectural genius, and close tap onto the planet’s cycle.

After two hours, and about 2000 beads of sweat later (it was about 39 degrees Celcius), we leave the site where we have witnessed the renown ancient ball court, where history has it that the winner was sacrificed/beheaded (as depicted through the stone carvings), a large cenote, circular Mayan ruins, and a handful of colourful markets.

We break for lunch before embarking once again on the long, flat highway to the colonial, ‘White City’ of Merida. During our orientation walk, Lisa points out the best places for cheap meals, laundry, internet and breakfast café options. Plus we happen to arrive on Sunday where the weekly markets breathe a colourful, festive life into the main square. Crafts, jewellery, handmade clothing and carvings are on offer, as well as live entertainment from local theatre groups, school students, and bands. At night, the street comes more alive, with couples dancing to a lively, upbeat Spanish music group. Mexican men try and coax Emma and I to dance with them in the streets; however, we have our hearts set on another street-based adventure – the horse and carriage ride. Although the horse appears less than excited to walk the same route again the driver leads us on a 45-minute city tour, pointing out the stunning mansions, government buildings (yes both are very, very large and in the town’s trademark colour: white), and the enormous and very detailed statue of the history of Mexico.

Back in the hotel, Emma and I reminisce over the day, and share our love for Merida – the Mexican town we have definitely developed a crush on.

Cancun – Coronas, Cocktails & Cruisy Days

Having spent the last few days overcoming some serious jet lag, exploring the hotel zone of Cancun and enjoying my first authentic Mexican cuisine and drinks, I have experienced a brief taste of the colourful and cheerful Mexican culture – a definite teaser for the two-week tour I start today.

The Cancun beaches defy their picturesque postcard-worthy status – Grand Oasis Playa is simply stunning, and it wasn’t even our intention to visit there, Emma and I stumbled across it purely by accident! After jumping on the bus, throwing down seven pesos and landing on the first seat our bodies flew to (the bus drivers here are certainly on a mission, accelerating even before you have time to hand over your fare) we realise ten minutes later we are not on our way downtown. We are heading the opposite direction, (hint: don’t always believe fellow tourist’s local knowledge, especially after they have consumed a few too many Margaritas!). Luckily, the last stop is this magical beach, where turquoise waters, snow-white sand and a sea of relaxed bronzed bodies seduce us.

Once we finally made our way down town (thanks to some friendly locals), we get caught up in the hustle and bustle of the bright, busy nightlife. It’s late and children are still skipping the streets, ahead of their families, oblivious to any curfew. People are relaxing in bars and restaurants, live music filters through the balmy air, and as we wander the streets we kindly decline the string of persistent waiters trying to coax us into their establishments. This is because we had planned on dining at a popular Mexican restaurant; however, on the way we were caught up at the market stalls where subsequently our daily budget was chewed up. We fell in love with the most gorgeous silver Mexican jewellery, and after having some fun bartering, we walked away with two stunning opal rings. And an empty stomach. Across the road we ate dinner at where our now-slashed budget allows. But hey, Burger King’s fluorescent lights really did bring out our ring’s colours!

This glimpse into the beauty of the Mexican jewellery and crafts excites me, and I can’t wait to scour more markets during the tour.

In the evening, after our free day in downtown Cancun, we meet our tour leader Lisa and our group – a great mix of people, a handful of fellow Aussies, and even a girl from the very same suburb as me! Over dinner at Roots, a beautiful restaurant with tempting two-for-one drinks (the pina coladas are to die for!), we learn more about each other and share our excitement for next day – Chichen Itza!

One sleep to go!

In an idyllic scenario, the day before I jet off, I would be all packed, confident that I had not missed anything, and indulging in tea and talk with family and friends about what this overseas adventure would bring. And, while there were fragments of this calm version of events, it was more a flurry of packing, and re-packing – omitting several items that I had once thought oh-so essential – and organising my pre-departure day down to a minute-by-minute schedule. Even in my sleep I was ticking off check-lists.

But after months of planning, the trip that always felt so far away can now be counted down by the hour. A little more than a year ago, touring Mexico was a little pipe-dream my best friend, and now travel-partner, Emma and I conjured up over a few too many Coronas on a hot day in a Brisbane bar. The culture, history, beaches, party-atmosphere, and the thought of $1 Coronas versus the $7.50 imported price in Australia was just too tempting.

While I am nursing feelings of elation and excitement of three weeks in Mexico (we have opted to stay a few extra days at the start and conclusion of the tour), I am also juggling the thought of jumping on a plane in Mexico City and heading straight to London for a two-year working holiday. Coming from a girl whose travel experience stayed firmly planted on the east coast of Australia, this adventure will certainly be so very exciting, but also an eye-opener into the lives of other cultures. And now in just hours I will be waving goodbye to many sad, tear-soaked faces at Brisbane International Airport and boarding for the adventure of a lifetime!