Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun, and bidding the Tucan group farewell – we’re in Mexico City!

At 7am wearied-eyed group members shuffle onto the bus, and as the bus rolls quietly through the streets, we watch the town of Puebla slowly wake up as we leave for Mexico City. On the way, we stop for coffee and to take in the magnificent sight of snow-capped mountains, which is dubbed “Itchy & Scratchy” – a surreal sight for summer time in Mexico! A couple of hours later we enter the famous Teotuhuacan ruins, a spectacular and very large site, and home to the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Sun. This site is simply enormous, pyramid after pyramid span the horizon. The heat is in full effect, as usual, but it doesn't stop us walking half way up the Moon pyramid (due to restorations) and the full 248 or so stairs to the top of the Sun pyramid - a feat that most fitness levels can endure, given I witnessed mothers carrying babies on their backs, kindergarten-aged kids, along with 70-year-old grandmas successfully make the mission both up and down.

We share our final group lunch together, before returning back to the bus to our last stop: Mexico City. As we pull into the world's largest city, with a population of 25 million people (more than the entire population of Australia!), Mexico City needs no introduction as its hectic, compact, and loud intensity smacks us in the face. We pile our backpacks on and collect all our excess baggage from the bus and learn to battle the sea of people on the way to our hotel. Everything is rush rush as we dodge our way through the sidewalk that is littered with stalls, people, dogs, smells, sounds and non-stop action - basically an all out assault on each of our five senses! Although, some of the areas are less hectic, the zocalo (main square) surprisingly, being one of them.

During our farewell dinner, we swap memories and email addresses, and it suddenly dawns on me just how much we have experienced on the tour. In two short weeks we have clocked up so many amazing memories, visited a plethora of interesting towns, and drank so much cerveca and feasted on an array of corn-related meals that instead of satisfying my taste for Mexico, it has only ignited it. Where to next?

Happy travels,
Julia

Don sombreros for roadside cacti photo shoot, then onwards to Puebla

Hunting down somewhere open before 8am for breakfast at Oaxaca proved quite a challenge. Pounding the pavement for several blocks, we eventually found a café that opened its doors, racing in we grabbed two crossaints and ran back to the hotel to make the bus for an 8.30am start – today we are travelling to Puebla, and it is another long trip.

A few hours in, and about three repeats of The Killers' latest album on my Ipod, we stop by the roadside on the highway at a fantastic collection of cacti – tall ones, short ones, and round ones. We muster our Mexican props: sombreros, ponchos and Mezcal, and take turns posing for photos. But it's clear we Aussies and Kiwis (and one Irishman!) couldn’t compete with Louis’s (our fantastic Tucan Tour driver) pose – very authentic!

We pile back onto the bus and continue climbing the altitude of 1500m-2000m to reach the next town, Puebla – the city of tavavera tiles, and home to the famous Mole Poblano, a chilli chocolate sauce. As we enter the city, which unlike the previous towns is not indigenous, it is evident through the stunning streets and the building’s intricately tiled walls, that the Spanish brought with them a distinct European influence. A large, bustling city, with a more middle-to-upper class demographic, I spot the first suit I’ve seen in almost three weeks in Mexico.

During the orientation walk, I made a mental note of all the clothes stores, boutiques, and jewellery stores, and promise myself to get some retail therapy in after the group dinner. After dinner, we ran through the rain, dodging droplets by tip-toeing under store awnings, and it is at night time that I notice just how truly beautiful the town and main square is. Bundles of balloons for sale add vibrant splashes of colour to the dark night sky, while fairy lights twinkle through the branches of the trees. Jazz music floats through the air, and I wish we were spending more than just one night in this town.

Lie ins, a diet of Gatorade and Burger King chips, and strolling Oaxaca streets…

After a peaceful sleep for me, and a not so peaceful sleep for Emma, we both wake up feeling like we have been hit by a bus. Me on one hand, simply drained but recovering from the past day, whereas poor Emma has succumbed to a similar state as I was in yesterday.

While the rest of the group visited the Monte Alban ruins, which have been described to me as very beautiful, ornate and descriptive, yet mostly restored, Emma and I spent the morning in bed. Leaving the hotel only to venture to Burger King for some bland fries to fill our empty stomachs. After my energy is restored thanks to a few bottles of Gatorade, I join some other group members and take a scenic stroll through Oaxaca, a large, lively student city where it is recommended to visit the aromatic food markets to try the spices, cheeses and even grilled grasshoppers. There are many stunning buildings and churches in the town, and while we laid relatively low today, I didn’t feel like I missed out on too much.

Food poisoning and five-hour bus trips do not mix…

Ok, I’ll admit it. I had been rather cocky that my tummy had not given way to Montezuma’s revenge. After feasting on plenty of traditional Mexican cuisine for more than a week, my stomach has taken to the transitions very well. Hoping I would last the entire tour without tummy problems was drawn to a quick halt when I was awoken abruptly by chronic stomach pains that forced me to befriend the bathroom on spontaneous trips from 3am til 7am. Upon waking and groaning about just how I would manage a five-hour trip with nausea and tummy issues, I downed some tablets, and miserably walked off to the waiting bus. An hour in and my tummy slowly settled, but the nausea kicked in big time. Each twist in the road, twisted my tummy even more, to the point where I was actually sick on the bus – something I have not done since I was 10. Luckily I was discreet, and shifted myself to the front of the bus, where the travel-sickness was held at bay temporally by focusing on the horizon.

On our way to Oaxaca we stopped at a Mezcal factory, and observed how the authenic Mexican drink is made. Samples of the traditional worms were digested only by a handful of the game, while most preferred to knock back shots of the traditional mezcal, along with the creamy, sweet liquoirs. Back on the bus my fellow tour-mate experienced my same earlier fate – and after discussions, we worked out we both ate chicken the night before. Given I am not prone to travel sickness, and that I was plagued with pain for 24 hours, I am convinced it was food poisoning. Luckily for me, the afternoon and evening was free at the hotel. Unluckily for me, our hotel room had no hot water.

Today was by far the longest, most trying day of the tour. Bring on tomorrow…please!

Speedboat riding, croc spotting, and more twisting mountain roads…

We arrive early at the Grijalva River to visit the spectacular Sumidero Canyon via speedboat. Lifejackets on, and cameras at the ready, we speed down the flat waters that divide the canyons which reach startling 1000m heights. The eagle-eyed tour leader frantically pulls the boat to a halt and sneaks up close to crocodiles lazing in the water’s shallows. A little further up we spot spider monkeys cheekily swinging through the trees and playing wildly. Vultures wash and sun their wings, spanning their dark feathers in the morning sunlight before taking off for the day.

As we speed 26km down the beautiful calm waters, we pass under bridges and slow down near some breathtaking sites: a religious tribute cave, the Christmas tree mountain, and a historically and culturally significant site. The water is 100m deep, and as we crane our necks to the top of the 1000m tall canyon, we are told that in ancient times, it is believed that Mayans jumped to their deaths when the Spanish invaded, a tragic leap to rid themselves from an impending life of slavery. Each day I learn more and more about Mexico’s very long and interesting history, and I promise myself to google more when I leave the country.

Back on the bus, we snack on chocolates and chips, finish our novels, and hum to our Ipods until we reach our next brief stop, a prison that sells very large, fantastic quality hammocks made by the inmates. Most of the group snap up the colourful hammocks, I on one hand opting for a bright fusion of greens – I can’t wait to set it up back at home and tell my friends about its interesting origins. Back on the road, we eventually reach our final stop for the night at Tehuantepec, where we stay at a hotel by the highway. Quickly dumping our backs at our rooms, we don our bikinis and jump into the pool, eager to exercise and relax outdoors after our five hour bus ride. A waiter brings out cocktails, and I lie in a hammock, sipping a pina colada, reading my book – and certainly not missing my usual 9-5 job back home. During the evening, we eat at the hotel’s restaurant and retire early, as we have another large travel day ahead of us tomorrow.

Lazy days and lazy nights…

Emma and I doze til late, and while our tummy's are craving some greasy bacon and eggs, we can only find baguettes and spaghetti to fill the gap – and it does, sufficiently. We walk the streets and view the spectacular churches, stroll through the markets, and sip hot chocolate while taking in the action of the town square. A bustling small city, San Cristobal is also fantastic for jewellery lovers, with plenty of boutique stores with gorgeous rings, necklaces and bracelets, particularly of the amber variety. After dinner at one of the top 10 restaurants in Mexico famous for its selection of delicious Indian, Thai and Arabic fare, we stop by a jewellery store and treat ourselves to some amber and lapis lazuli rings – our latest penchant.

Chilly dips, to chilly town, to Chile wine!

Back on the bus, which by the way is very comfortable given we have 16 people on the tour who share 40 seats, we travel a short distance to Misol Ha Falls, a beautiful waterfall surrounded by lush, green forest. Perfect photo opportunity, particularly on the walk that leads around and behind the falls, allowing us to peer through the sheet of water. We then visit the beautiful Agua Azul Falls, a large site with crystal clear water and small falls – perfect for swimming, as long as you are careful of the strong current. As we brave the chilly water and pace slowly through the knee-length depths, we quickly summon up the courage to plunge into the water. The short swim is just enough, and we spend the rest of the morning basking in the sun on our sarongs. Mexican children, who balance large baskets of bananas on their heads, accost us to try buy bunches from them – although pleasant enough, they are rather bold, following us around from the pools through to the tour bus.

A very windy, five-hour drive up the mountain takes us to the incredibly crisp and clean-aired San Cristobal, another charming colonial town with plenty of local market action, beautiful restaurants, and a busy night life. Our hotel is lush and comfy and to my surprise, after sleeping on top of sheets with air-conditioning blasting the whole trip, we actually make use of the doona and two woolen blankets – it is that crisp! At night the group dine at a very delicious restaurant, and I indulge in a steak – a change from the rich Mexican cuisine. The steak is tender, cooked perfectly and is stacked with wild mushroom sauce. The sauvignon blanc from Chile is crisp, fruity and morish, breathing truth to the rumors that wines from Chile far beat other central/south American wines. After dinner, we don our dancing shoes and hit the salsa club, where a live salsa band is playing and the dance floor is warming up. We take in the lively atmosphere, and after a round of tequila slammers, we mimic the action of the salsa professionals. Although we may not look as good, we are having just as much fun! After a fantastic night of dancing and sampling Mexican beer, cocktails and tequila, we walk the quiet, dark streets back to the hotel for a long, long sleep.